Climbing - 2005/09/10 - Cannon Cliff, NH - Moby Grape Phil G., Mike L, Myself, and Simon P., hit up Cannon in New Hampshire on Saturday. It is a classic 5.8 wall climb, comparable to (but much longer than) Nutcracker in Yosemite or to Guide's Wall in the Tetons. Generally good rock notwithstanding, as an alpine route on an exfoliating cliff Moby Grape certainly requires more commitment than your average Gunks 5.8. The Conn buttress borders the right side of the big wall section and Moby Grape climbs up the center of this buttress. Cannon continues to shed large chunks, with the massive flake that formed the whale’s back on the final pitch of the classic Whaleback Crack coming down in 1997 and the “Old Man in the Mountain,” New Hampshire’s state emblem since 1945, collapsing in 2003. All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 4. Pricing. Classics include: The Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7), Moby Grape (5.8), Union Jack (5.9), Duet (5.7), Vertigo (5.9+), VMC DD (5.10+), Location: Cannon Cliff, Franconia, NH Dates. 45 second video: Climbing Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff - YouTube Moby Grape, Cannon Cliff, NH. One can either squeeze between the fin and the wall or come around to the exposed face of the Sickle. Moby Grape is the second most popular route on Cannon, behind the Whitney Gilman Ridge. Now factor in the biting black flies and weather that sneaks up on you from behind the cliff, and you can see why We reach the base of the climb in about 35 minutes. The cliff is composed of layered slabs of granite that seem to periodically give way and join the massive talus field at the bottom. Though it’s a good pitch, it’s most often skipped for Reppy’s Crack (5.8)—a 120-foot hand-crack splitter established in 1965—a temptation my partner Alex and I could not resist on our ascent in 2015. Franconia: On Sunday, September 20, 2020 just before 4:00 PM NH Fish and Game Conservation Officers were alerted to a climbing accident on Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park. Moby Grape Area . Moby Grape Area Rock Climbing. Several 911 calls were made from the Moby Grape climbing route reporting that a climber had fallen after a large rock had dislodged and severed his climbing rope. With spectacular routes that can take up to two days, most can be done in a half day and even alot of one or two pitch climbs. After cruising through the boulder-problem crux of pitch 5, we jinxed ourselves by proclaiming that we only had two more pitches left and would reach the car before dark. Cannon Cliff is the tallest and most respected cliff in New England. The Gypsy Cafe in Lincoln is fairly unique, while the Woodstock Inn is great for beer and burgers. This one is worth doing at least once for the exposure, and there are a few options of varying difficulty to get to the top. No matter, this only probably cost us 5-10 minutes. A Somerville man was killed over the weekend in a White Mountains climbing accident when a refrigerator-sized rock severed his rope, sending … Use the contact form below to check availability. The original first pitch consists of an awkward layback, followed by a traverse across the face to finish with some finger and hand crack. On September 2, my climbing partner Jon Sykes and I had gotten an alpine start to climb on Cannon Cliff hoping to beat the weather coming in with hurricane Ernesto. Lee Hansche chooses the left option on the Finger of Fate pitch (5.7), chimneying up until he can clasp the top of the Finger. If you top out Whitney Gilman, continue to follow the ridge back and up toward the summit and you’ll find an obvious trail that leads first back, then left, then down an endless slope eventually arriving at the carriage road underneath the cliff. Was largely alien to a Gunks climber like me found about an north! 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